YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM
In theory, a septic tank system is an ideal way to dispose of ordinary household wastewater. It is self-contained, efficient and inexpensive. In practice, though, it often turns out to be a disaster. Problems could be caused by poor design, poor construction or poor site evaluation. But often they are caused by the way the system is used.

A properly designed and installed septic system should give 15 to 20 years of trouble-free service. But it won't last anywhere near that long if the homeowner doesn't understand how it works and fails to take good care of it.
Fully a quarter of all U.S. households use septic systems. Most of those homes are in rural or suburban areas without municipal sewage facilities.
The beauty of the home septic system is it's simplicity. There are only two basic components; a large underground tank and a drain field. Waste water drains from sinks, tubs, and toilets into the tank where bacterial action breaks the waste into sludge, liquid, scum and gas. The gas is vented to the outside (typically through a vent in the roof) the sledge sinks to the bottom and the scum floats on top. The liquid, called effluent is distributed through a network of underground tiles that make up the drain field. There it filters water percolation and allows further digestion. It then seeps through the gravel and soil where it is cleared of most harmful substances and bacteria and ends up in underground aquifers.
Simple though it is, it is not hard to foul up a recycling system like this. You can put things in that won't decompose, allow too many solids to build up or use too much water, saturating the drain field. Once in a while a root may plug up a drain tile.
These glitches can cause a breakdown, which is accompanied by unmistakable symptoms; sluggish toilet, bad odor and water seeping to the surface out in the field. If you're lucky, a simple tank cleaning or root removal job will bail you out. If the trouble recurs in a short time, though, you can be looking at the major expense of building a new drain field, replacing a too small tank or both.
AVOIDING THE PROBLEMS
DON"T SKIP ON TANK CLEANING - Some experts recommend an every other year cycle, but what's best for you depends on the size of your system and the load you put on it. In addition each City may have their own individual requirements.
Here's the important thing: If you wait too long, the accumulation of sludge and scum will wash out into the tiles, clogging the absorption system and shortening the life of your drain field. If you use a garbage disposal the system should be maintained more often. If you have a water softener, don't set it to recycle more often than necessary. That spares the system up to 80 gallons every time your softener recharges.
SKIP THE QUICK FIXES - The household plumbing market has endured a fairly steady stream of cleverly packaged additives that promise to eliminate or reduce the need for periodic tank cleaning and prolong the life of your entire system.
Don't believe it! The old bromide about flushing a cake or two of baker's yeast down the toilet is harmless enough. But, experts warn some of the new additives can actually hurt your system by dislodging undigested solids, allowing them to spill out of the tank and consequently clog the absorption field.
WATCH WHAT YOU FLUSH - Nothing should enter the system that won't quickly disintegrate, will kill bacteria or decompose and settle on the bottom of the tank. Human waste, toilet paper and liquid soap are fine. Excessive amounts of bleach or household cleaners can also be harmful. Grease, disposable diapers, wet wipes and paper towels are troublesome. So are cigarette butts, food wastes and sanitary napkins/tampons.